Fringe Hatalong No. 1: Audrey by Jessie Roselyn

Fringe Hatalong No. 1: Audrey by Jessie Roselyn — a mini-knitalong

My darling friend Anna Dianich of Tolt Yarn and Wool commissioned Jessie Roselyn to design a set of patterns for her Snoqualmie Valley Yarn last fall, and it’s super charming. (You know I love a good chevron stitch!) The complete Audrey Collection includes a hat, mittens and socks all in the same reverse-stockinette-with-chevrons stitch pattern. The hat, though, can be worn either side out and was photographed both ways. The photos on the model above show it stockinette side out, which is how I actually prefer it, so that’s the modified pattern I’ve chosen for the first Fringe Hatalong Series knitalong and am publishing below, with Anna’s permission.

In addition to the mittens and socks, the PDF version of the pattern includes a chart, so if you want the chart, the additional patterns and/or to have it in PDF form, you can purchase the complete set at Ravelry. I’m very grateful to Anna for giving us (this modified version of) the hat pattern for the knitalong. A portion of the proceeds from the pattern yarn is going to Seattle Children’s Hospital and Anna asks that, in exchange for the free hat pattern, you please donate a dollar or two to the same cause. You can make a donation through Seattle Children’s Hospital’s site.

The full hat pattern is below!

I’ll be answering questions (to the best of my abilities) in the comments section on this post. I hope you’ll share pictures of your hats here (link to wherever from the comments), on Ravelry and Instagram using the hashtag #fringehatalong. But I will only be able to answer questions posted here in the comments.

NOTES FOR BEGINNERS: In addition to being just knits and purls, this pattern is written with beginners in mind, including indications for where you should reset your row counter if you’re using one. (You could also just make tick marks or check marks on paper, or whatever works for you, as long as you’re consistent in doing it!) I would add that the stitch pattern for the body of the hat (beginning with the Pattern Rounds) is based on a 12-stitch repeat. To make it easier to keep your place and catch mistakes quickly, you might want to use 10 extra stitch markers to separate the repeats. You’ll already have one marker marking the beginning of your round, and that marker should be different from the rest (a different size, shape or color) so you know which one is the BOR (beginning of round) marker versus the rest of them. When you get to the first Pattern Round, work the first 12 stitches as indicated (p1, k11), then place a marker; work the next 12 stitches (p1, k11), place another marker, etc. On the successive rounds, you’ll simply slip each marker from the left to right needle as you come to them. You might drop them when switching to DPNs or during the last of the Top Shaping rounds once they’re in the way, but keep your BOR marked. Also, I strongly recommend you use the nicely stretchy Long-Tail Cast On.

For details on how to swatch for this hat, I’ve spelled that out in the comments. For general guidance and advice on how to knit a hat, see Anatomy lessons and Gauge and size.

. . .

Audrey Hat pattern by Jessie Roselyn

Fringe Hatalong No. 1: Audrey by Jessie Roselyn — a mini-knitalong

CONSTRUCTION NOTES
This pattern provides instructions for two levels of slouchiness: You can work an additional pattern repeat to create a more slouchy fit.

Hat is knitted in the round with a circular needle. When you reach the point where there are not enough stitches to stretch around the circular needle, switch to double-pointed needles. The hat may be worked entirely on double-pointed needles if you don’t have a circular, or if you prefer that method to knit in the round.

[see note on dimensions below]

. . .

MATERIALS

YARN
Approximately 175 yd / 160 m of light DK weight yarn
Sample shown in 8″ fit knitted in Snoqualmie Valley Yarn (100% wool, 250 yd/230 m per 100g skein)

GAUGE
5 stitches/9 rows = 1 in/2.5 cm in pattern stitch

NEEDLES
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
US6/4.0 mm needles — a 16-in/40-cm circular needle and set of double-pointed needles (or use your preferred small-circumference method)

NOTIONS
Stitch marker, row counter, tapestry needle

. . .

HAT INSTRUCTIONS
CO 88 stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Setup Rounds
Rounds 1-10: [K2, P2] repeat to end
Round 11: [K4, M1] repeat to end (110 stitches)
Round 12: [K5, M1] repeat to end (132 stitches)
Reset row counter.

Pattern Rounds
Repeat pattern rounds 1-15 a total of three times for the 8″ hat (pictured) or four times for the slouchier 9.5″ hat.
Round 1: [P1, K11] repeat to end
Round 2: [P1, K11] repeat to end
Round 3: [P2, K9, P1] repeat to end
Round 4: [K1, P1, K9, P1] repeat to end
Round 5: [K1, P2, K7, P2] repeat to end
Round 6: [K2, P1, K7, P1, K1] repeat to end
Round 7: [K2, P2, K5, P2, K1] repeat to end
Round 8: [K3, P1, K5, P1, K2] repeat to end
Round 9: [K3, P2, K3, P2, K2] repeat to end
Round 10: [K4, P1, K3, P1, K3] repeat to end
Round 11: [K4, P2, K1, P2, K3] repeat to end
Round 12: [K5, P1, K1, P1, K4] repeat to end
Round 13: [K5, P3, K4] repeat to end
Round 14: [K6, P1, K5] repeat to end
Round 15: [K6, P1, K5] repeat to end
Reset row counter; repeat as indicated above for desired length

Top Shaping
[NOTE: this section was tweaked at 8:55am PST to include one extra decrease round.]
Round 1: [K10, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 2: [K9, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 3: [K8, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 4: [K7, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 5: [K6, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 6: [K5, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 7: [K4, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 8: [K3, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 9: [K2, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 10: [K1, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 11: [K2tog] repeat to end
Bind off by pulling working yarn through remaining stitch loops with tapestry needle.

Finishing
Weave in the ends and block.

. . .

ABBREVIATIONS
CO: Cast on
K: Knit
K2tog: Knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased)
M1: Make 1 stitch — insert left needle under bar between stitches from front to back; knit this stitch through back loop (1 stitch increased)
P: Purl

.

Pattern and photos © Tolt Yarn and Wool; published with permission

86 thoughts on “Fringe Hatalong No. 1: Audrey by Jessie Roselyn

  1. Wow! That’s a teeny tiny hat. That hat would fit my 18 month old (19″ head last time I measured him). I envy people with such teeny tiny heads. It will take a lot of adjustments to get it to fit my giant brain.

    Like

    • That is the measurement for the ribbing, which is meant to stretch. The body of the hat is 132 stitches, which at 5sts/inch would be 26 inches. So if you want to cast on more for the ribbing, just do fewer increases in the setup rounds to get to that 132.

      Like

  2. Karen- I typically knit hats with the ribbing one size smaller than the body. Would you recommend that for this hat- or just stick with the gauge needle since you are increasing so many stitches?

    Like

  3. What a pretty design! Would you recommend going down a needle size or two for the ribbing? I find that my purls are looser than my knit stitches, so ribbing can actually be wider when I knit in the round.

    Like

  4. A thank you and a request: we love hats! I’m hoping to cast this on along with my 8 year old daughter who is progressing to circular needles. Thank you for this lovely pattern. The request is for myself and others who may be as technologically challenged as me….any way these patterns could be formatted that we could just press a “print this” icon and just the pattern would print….not the whole page plus comments? I’ve run across this handy method on some cooking and knitting websites, and I really appreciate the ease. Regardless, we probably will copy and paste this pattern to a Word document to print and start immediately….maybe just a thought for the future? Sorry to be so long-winded :)

    Like

  5. I recently bought one skein of the Wensleydale yarn from you. Do you think that would work for this patter on size 6 round needles? Also, do you have to transition to double pointed needles for the crown? (Obvious beginner here!) Thank you!

    Like

  6. Since this is a 12 stitch repeat pattern and you suggest markers every 12 stitches for beginners , why does the first decrease only involve 11 stitches?

    Like

    • I’ve knit this hat, it worked perfectly, it is a beautiful spiral. The math doesn’t work out as well if the decreases start out at 10 stitches. 132/12=11, which is why the decreases start at 9 (to create 11.) I’m a little concerned if you start the decreases at 10 it won’t look as good.

      Like

      • Hi, Kimberly. I just had an email from Anna saying the tech editor pointed out that 132 divides evenly by either 12 or 11. (The body of the hat is divided by 12.) So it should work out the same either way — it’s just a matter of how the decrease swirls line up with the chevrons, right? I’d love it if you’d send (or post) a pic of your crown!

        Like

        • Thanks Karen, I’ll be interested in seeing how it comes out starting with 10 stitches before the decrease. I wonder if I’ll wish I’d waited for this Hat-a-long! :) I’ll send a photo of my finished crown.

          Like

    • That’s a very good question, Linda, thank you for asking it! Gauge for the pattern is given in the patterned stitch — the chevron stitch pattern that’s created in the Pattern Rounds section. The repeat is 12 stitches wide (which you can tell from the first instruction being “P1, K11” — that’s a total of 12 stitches) and 15 rows/rounds tall. You need at least 4 inches to measure. Since the gauge is stated as 5 sts/inch, you can guess that the 12-stitch repeat is roughly 2.5 inches wide. So you need to work at least two repeats wide (cast on 24 or 36 stitches), and then work the 15 rows as many times as you need for your fabric to be at least 4 inches tall.

      Make sense?

      General advice on knitting, blocking and measuring a swatch can be found in the Gauge and size post.

      Like

  7. Thank you for sharing this – and all of your other detailed instructions. As I challenge myself out of my comfort zone, I am learning from much from your posts.

    Like

  8. Pingback: Pom Pom, tea towels and so much more | Fringe Association

  9. so much going on with this kal – great to see and be part of! Love the energy of courage as some tread into new territory! Fun and fashionable – great choice, Karen! I’ve decided to use a Cormo yarn purchased at my LYS – needed to see what all the hype was about (with Cormo) – sheep raised in Lonsdale MN – love that local feel! yay hats!

    Like

  10. ok – so I think this happens to me fairly often but I’m really noticing it in this hat – my M1 are creating these big holes just above the rib. what’s up with THAT? is there a way to fix w/o going all the way back? anyone? anyone??

    Like

    • Unless the M1 stitch is twisted properly, it will create a hole. So if you’re picking the bar up from the front, you have to knit into the back of it once it’s on the left needle, which twists the stitch and closes the hole. Or if you’re picking up from the back, knit through the front.

      The M1 is linked up there to a video on how to do it. I would recommend watching that and seeing if what you’re doing matches that.

      Like

  11. bummer – pattern said M1 by picking up from the front and knitting the stitch – did NOT indicate Ktbl so I assumed it was just a straight knit stitch… this might be my inexperience but DANG… wish the instructions in the patterns would say ktbl rather than simply “knit the stitch”. I’m already (almost) throught the first pattern repeat – suggestions on repairing the hole or….. RIP IT back? argh

    Like

    • It does say knit through the back loop, both above and in the PDF. I included the video link for good measure! Since I know there are a lot of new knitters participating. I’m genuinely sorry you missed that detail, and unfortunately I don’t know of a fix other than ripping back. Unless you just want to take a yarn tail and weave it closed at the end, which might be more work than ripping back.

      Like

  12. totally my bad – just seeing now that I only read(directions) to the end of the line, assuming…likely distracted… sorry about all the CAPS in my last post. I think I will close my eyes and just start pulling it out – lesson learned so, happy to have made the mistake I guess. Pretty, pretty pattern, Karen. I will be much happier in the end, without the holes! Onward!

    Like

  13. Pingback: Natural Wool Dyeing in Photos (using instructions from 1935) | Colibri Homestead

  14. Pingback: Knit the Look: Natalie Joos’ charcoal cap | Fringe Association

  15. I love this hat! So cute! But, I cannot get the pattern to print. Nothing comes up on print preview or just clicking on print. I don’t want to buy the pattern at Ravelry because I don’t want to knit the socks or mittens. I’m perfectly happy to make a donation to Seattle’s Children’s Hospital because, not only the good they do in the community but also because one of my son’s was helped at one of their clinics. Do I need to make the donation before it will print out?

    Like

  16. Pingback: Boxes out and boxes in | Fringe Association

  17. Pingback: Introduction | Have Wool ~ Will Knit

  18. My Aubrey Hat is finished – thank you to Karen and Jessie! (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/MJLivBold/audrey-collection)
    A wonderful new learning experience I hadn’t grasped before: the whole “make one” instruction to lift the bar and “knit at the back.” I tend to “not see” some details in pattern instructions (like a Jared Flood scarf chart that was to be read right to left and then left to right – I did all the rows right to left and couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get some of the pattern sections to work!! It was only a random comment in Ravelry that tuned me in – ach!) Luckily I reread the M1 instructions a few times before starting the increases and finally “saw” the knit from behind. What a lovely increase that made!

    Like

  19. Pingback: The lovely Audrey | Fringe Association

  20. Thank you! I just finished this in a beautiful soft peach color… I’m making another one once I can choose a color…this was a great pattern and just reinforced many of my knitting skills. It’s time for a sweater now! LOVE your site and everything you’ve shared.

    Like

  21. Pingback: Spring Hats | The Knitted

  22. Pingback: Hatalong No. 2 PREVIEW | Fringe Association

  23. Pingback: Fringe Hatalong No. 2: L’Arbre by Cirilia Rose | Fringe Association

  24. Hi. I love your hat pattern. I knitted it in a worsted weight yarn and it came out a little big but is very pretty. To make it a little smaller how many should I cast on in the beginning. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks so much!

    Like

  25. Pingback: A L’Arbre … for my niece | Fringe Association

  26. Hi Karen,
    I am In the process of knitting this hat for myself, and my 7 year old daughter really likes it. Is there an easy way to decrease the number of stitches? Just to make it more interesting, she has chosen a fingering weight yarn. The yarn says to use needles size 0-2.
    Thanks, Cynthia

    Like

  27. Thanks Karen. If I wanted to keep the same pattern, do I decrease the large cluster of knit stitches that are usually in the middle of the repeat pattern?

    Like

    • Right. Your chevrons will be smaller, and more of them. But the crown of Audrey is all stockinette — so you stop doing the patterned stitch when you’re ready to start decreasing.

      Like

  28. Please help, I just started and co 88 stitches and on round 11 when I finished that round, I have only 105 stitches instead of 110. No one else seems to be having this problem. My calculations are 17 increases which would equal 105 stitches. I am not experienced enough to adjust this or figure out what I have done wrong. Thanks

    Like

    • Hi, Sandra. I’m not sure how you’re arriving at that number, so not sure exactly what’s going wrong or how to help you correct for it. You K4 and then M1 — so you’re making one new stitch after every fourth stitch. 88 divided by 4 is 22 M1s, or an increase of 22 stitches, which makes it 110 total at the end of the round. Are you doing the M1 increase as specified in the pattern or some other form of increase?

      Like

  29. Pingback: Finishing what I’ve started | Fringe Association

  30. Pingback: Hatalong No. 3 PREVIEW | Fringe Association

  31. Pingback: Hatalong No. 4 PREVIEW | Fringe Association

  32. Pingback: WIPs Wednesday: All the projects! | 2 little sticks

  33. Pingback: FO Friday: Audrey hat | 2 little sticks

  34. Pingback: Best new hat patterns — Fall ’15 | Fringe Association

  35. I just love this hat! I would like a to knit it for my 4 year old grand niece. Please help me modify the pattern e.g. How many stitches to cast on, and how many repeat pattern rounds?
    I also plan to make a matching one ( for her mother) as pattern above! Thanks so much!

    Like

    • Hi, Jennifer. You’ll just need to do the math based on your gauge and your desired dimensions. Knit a swatch and measure how wide each repeat is. Then multiply that however many times to get the intended circumference.

      Like

  36. Pingback: An Almost-Audrey Hat | Black Holes for Breakfast

  37. Pingback: Top posts of 2015 | Fringe Association

  38. I’m knitting hats for cancer patients who have lost their hair.
    Usually I cast on 72 stitches and don’t increase.
    This may be too big for the patients.
    I’m not good at calculating to change stitch numbers.
    Can you suggest how to make it smaller,
    With the number of stitches to cast on and how many to increase to to keep the pattern

    Like

  39. Pingback: Hats for skill-building and gift-giving | Fringe Association

  40. Pingback: Top posts of 2016 | Fringe Association

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s