Fringe Hatalong No. 1: Audrey by Jessie Roselyn

Fringe Hatalong No. 1: Audrey by Jessie Roselyn — a mini-knitalong

My darling friend Anna Dianich of Tolt Yarn and Wool commissioned Jessie Roselyn to design a set of patterns for her Snoqualmie Valley Yarn last fall, and it’s super charming. (You know I love a good chevron stitch!) The complete Audrey Collection includes a hat, mittens and socks all in the same reverse-stockinette-with-chevrons stitch pattern. The hat, though, can be worn either side out and was photographed both ways. The photos on the model above show it stockinette side out, which is how I actually prefer it, so that’s the modified pattern I’ve chosen for the first Fringe Hatalong Series knitalong and am publishing below, with Anna’s permission.

In addition to the mittens and socks, the PDF version of the pattern includes a chart, so if you want the chart, the additional patterns and/or to have it in PDF form, you can purchase the complete set at Ravelry. I’m very grateful to Anna for giving us (this modified version of) the hat pattern for the knitalong. A portion of the proceeds from the pattern yarn is going to Seattle Children’s Hospital and Anna asks that, in exchange for the free hat pattern, you please donate a dollar or two to the same cause. You can make a donation through Seattle Children’s Hospital’s site.

The full hat pattern is below!

I’ll be answering questions (to the best of my abilities) in the comments section on this post. I hope you’ll share pictures of your hats here (link to wherever from the comments), on Ravelry and Instagram using the hashtag #fringehatalong. But I will only be able to answer questions posted here in the comments.

NOTES FOR BEGINNERS: In addition to being just knits and purls, this pattern is written with beginners in mind, including indications for where you should reset your row counter if you’re using one. (You could also just make tick marks or check marks on paper, or whatever works for you, as long as you’re consistent in doing it!) I would add that the stitch pattern for the body of the hat (beginning with the Pattern Rounds) is based on a 12-stitch repeat. To make it easier to keep your place and catch mistakes quickly, you might want to use 10 extra stitch markers to separate the repeats. You’ll already have one marker marking the beginning of your round, and that marker should be different from the rest (a different size, shape or color) so you know which one is the BOR (beginning of round) marker versus the rest of them. When you get to the first Pattern Round, work the first 12 stitches as indicated (p1, k11), then place a marker; work the next 12 stitches (p1, k11), place another marker, etc. On the successive rounds, you’ll simply slip each marker from the left to right needle as you come to them. You might drop them when switching to DPNs or during the last of the Top Shaping rounds once they’re in the way, but keep your BOR marked. Also, I strongly recommend you use the nicely stretchy Long-Tail Cast On.

For details on how to swatch for this hat, I’ve spelled that out in the comments. For general guidance and advice on how to knit a hat, see Anatomy lessons and Gauge and size.

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Audrey Hat pattern by Jessie Roselyn

Fringe Hatalong No. 1: Audrey by Jessie Roselyn — a mini-knitalong

CONSTRUCTION NOTES
This pattern provides instructions for two levels of slouchiness: You can work an additional pattern repeat to create a more slouchy fit.

Hat is knitted in the round with a circular needle. When you reach the point where there are not enough stitches to stretch around the circular needle, switch to double-pointed needles. The hat may be worked entirely on double-pointed needles if you don’t have a circular, or if you prefer that method to knit in the round.

[see note on dimensions below]

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MATERIALS

YARN
Approximately 175 yd / 160 m of light DK weight yarn
Sample shown in 8″ fit knitted in Snoqualmie Valley Yarn (100% wool, 250 yd/230 m per 100g skein)

GAUGE
5 stitches/9 rows = 1 in/2.5 cm in pattern stitch

NEEDLES
Needle sizes are recommendations only; always use needle size necessary to achieve given gauge.
US6/4.0 mm needles — a 16-in/40-cm circular needle and set of double-pointed needles (or use your preferred small-circumference method)

NOTIONS
Stitch marker, row counter, tapestry needle

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HAT INSTRUCTIONS
CO 88 stitches. Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Setup Rounds
Rounds 1-10: [K2, P2] repeat to end
Round 11: [K4, M1] repeat to end (110 stitches)
Round 12: [K5, M1] repeat to end (132 stitches)
Reset row counter.

Pattern Rounds
Repeat pattern rounds 1-15 a total of three times for the 8″ hat (pictured) or four times for the slouchier 9.5″ hat.
Round 1: [P1, K11] repeat to end
Round 2: [P1, K11] repeat to end
Round 3: [P2, K9, P1] repeat to end
Round 4: [K1, P1, K9, P1] repeat to end
Round 5: [K1, P2, K7, P2] repeat to end
Round 6: [K2, P1, K7, P1, K1] repeat to end
Round 7: [K2, P2, K5, P2, K1] repeat to end
Round 8: [K3, P1, K5, P1, K2] repeat to end
Round 9: [K3, P2, K3, P2, K2] repeat to end
Round 10: [K4, P1, K3, P1, K3] repeat to end
Round 11: [K4, P2, K1, P2, K3] repeat to end
Round 12: [K5, P1, K1, P1, K4] repeat to end
Round 13: [K5, P3, K4] repeat to end
Round 14: [K6, P1, K5] repeat to end
Round 15: [K6, P1, K5] repeat to end
Reset row counter; repeat as indicated above for desired length

Top Shaping
[NOTE: this section was tweaked at 8:55am PST to include one extra decrease round.]
Round 1: [K10, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 2: [K9, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 3: [K8, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 4: [K7, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 5: [K6, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 6: [K5, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 7: [K4, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 8: [K3, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 9: [K2, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 10: [K1, K2tog] repeat to end
Round 11: [K2tog] repeat to end
Bind off by pulling working yarn through remaining stitch loops with tapestry needle.

Finishing
Weave in the ends and block.

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ABBREVIATIONS
CO: Cast on
K: Knit
K2tog: Knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased)
M1: Make 1 stitch — insert left needle under bar between stitches from front to back; knit this stitch through back loop (1 stitch increased)
P: Purl

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Pattern and photos © Tolt Yarn and Wool; published with permission

Two of my favorite patterns, now as kits!

Double Basketweave Cowl free knitting pattern

It’s been long enough since I published a knitting pattern here, and there are so many more people reading now than there were then, that likely a lot of you don’t even know I’ve published patterns! There are two I’m extremely fond of and have always regretted their having gotten short shrift in the photo department, plus they were never tech edited. So I’ve had them both photographed by the amazing Kathy Cadigan (modeled by Anna!) and tech edited by Ruth Garcia-Alcantud, have formatted both into neatly designed patterns, and today I’m pretty damn pleased to be re-releasing them — as knit kits! They are the Double Basketweave Cowl knit kit (above) and the Wabi Mitts knit kit (below). The cowl features Sincere Sheep’s naturally dyed Luminous wool-silk blend, and the mitts feature Habu’s beautifully slubby N-68 wool-linen blend. Both are pleasurably simple knits that yield finished items you’ll love and wear for years. And both are amazing yarns that aren’t necessarily that easy to come by, all of which is why I wanted to make them available to you as kits.

The kits themselves make marvelous gifts for knitters, of course, but these are quick enough projects there’s also still plenty of time for you to knit them up and give the finished cowl and/or mitts for the holidays, if you can stand not to keep them for yourself.

The original blog-post versions of the patterns have also been updated to match these revised editions: Double Basketweave Cowl and Wabi Mitts. And you can also find both patterns on Ravelry.

Wabi Mitts free knitting pattern

Whichaway Mitts

Whichaway Mitts free knitting pattern from Fringe Association

OK let’s face it, there are (at least) two things I can’t get enough of: this Anna yarn and tubes with thumb slits. What can I say? I mentioned when I posted the Stadium Mitts and Stadium Hat patterns that I had enough yarn left to knit another pair of the mitts. But when I picked that yarn back up, something else came off my needles.

I’ve had this very simple idea in my head for a long time, and the ebony and ivory Anna seemed like the perfect yarn to finally make it with: a pair of knitted tubes with the thumb slit placed dead center, colorblocked half and half. So there’s no top or bottom — you can pull them on thisaway, thataway or one of each. I couldn’t be happier with how they turned out, and I still have 50 yards of the natural left to play with! (It’s like the fishes and the loaves, this yarn.)

Although it’s just a few simple mods from the other mitts, I’ve written out the pattern details below for the benefit of beginners or anyone who just wants to cast on and go!

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Whichaway Mitts pattern

For these mitts (and the coordinating Stadium Hat and Stadium Mitts) you can use two skeins of Anna in any color combination. You could also use four different colors, or omit the colorblocking and knit them solid, or whatever your heart desires. The beauty of a project this simple is how easy it is to make it your own!

Construction notes:
The thumbhole portion of these mitts is worked in flat rows (with two stitches of garter at each end), treating the three needles holding live stitches as if they’re a single left-hand needle, and turning the work with each row, before rejoining in the round at the top of the thumb opening. In order to be able to wear the mitts either direction, as pictured, it’s critical that the cast-on and bind-off edges both be stretchy. I’ve used the long-tail cast-on and Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind-off, but you may use whatever stretchy cast-on and bind-off you like. Directions for EZ’s sewn bind-off follow the pattern.

Materials:

  • approx 60 yards (30 yards each of two colors) of Anna or other aran-weight yarn
  • double-pointed needles in size US8/5mm, or size needed to obtain a fabric you like — the stretchy ribbing will fit a wide range of hands regardless of precise gauge
  • tapestry needle

Measurements (after wet blocking):

  • Gauge is 5 stitches and 6.25 rows per inch in rib stitch
  • Circumference (unstretched) is approx 6 inches; length is 5.75 inches

DIRECTIONS

With color A and a US8 needle, and using the long-tail or other stretchy cast-on method, CO 32 stitches, then divide onto 3 DPNs (12, 8 and 12 sts). Make sure stitches are not twisted around needles, and join for working in the round. Use your tail (or pin a marker) to keep track of needle 1.

Knit in the round
Rounds 1–12:  *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round

Create thumbhole
(For this worked-flat portion, all odd-numbered rows are WS rows, and all even-numbered rows are RS rows)
Row 13: turn work (WS); *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k4
Row 14: turn work (RS); *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k4
Rows 15–17: continue alternating WS and RS rows as above
Row 18 (RS): Switching to color B, knit all stitches
Row 19–22: resume alternating WS and RS rows in pattern as established in 13 and 14

Rejoin and finish knitting
Round 23: rejoin in the round; *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Rounds 22–34: *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Bind off using Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind-off (below) or other stretchy bind-off.

Weave in ends. Repeat from beginning for second mitt.

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How to work Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind-off:
Wrap the working yarn loosely four times around the mitt, add a few inches for a tail to weave in, and break the yarn. Thread this long tail through a tapestry needle. Step 1: Pass the needle purlwise through the first two stitches on the needle and pull the tail through, leaving the stitches on the needle. Step 2: Pass the needle back through the first stitch knitwise, dropping that stitch off the needle, and pull the tail through. Repeat these two steps until one stitch remains on the needle. At this point, my method when binding off in the round is to pass the needle purlwise through that last stitch plus the front leg of the first bound-off stitch, neatly closing up the round. Then pass it knitwise back through the last stitch, drop the needle, and weave in the end.

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ABBREVIATIONS
CO = cast on
k = knit
p = purl
sts = stitches
WS = wrong side
RS = right side

Stadium Hat

Stadium Hat free knitting pattern at Fringe Association

As promised yesterday, here’s the Stadium Hat pattern to go with the Stadium Mitts, using the light, lovely and oh-so-charming Anna yarn (available in the shop). Being a classic beanie shape with a simple, timeless stripe, it’s pretty much trend-proof, as well as unisex. And it’s an easy, fun knit. Also available for queueing at Ravelry!

Stadium Hat pattern

For this hat and the coordinating Stadium Mitts you can use two skeins of Anna in any color combination, reversing the MC and CC from the mitts to the hat as shown. You could also knit more stripes, no stripes, or whatever your heart desires. The yarn will tolerate a smaller needle, so if you want a smaller hat, try simply going down a needle size.

Construction notes:
The decreases for this hat are staggered around the crown, leaving no visible decrease “seams” — the ribs simply narrow toward each other until meeting in the middle. The decrease section accounts for 2 inches of the hat’s height; adjust the pre-decrease portion to your liking for desired finished height. During the stripe portion, carry the non-working yarn up through the rows by laying it over the working yarn on the wrong side of the fabric at the beginning of each round. Note that each first round of a color change is a plain knit round — if omitting the stripes, rib every round instead.

Materials:

  • 100 yards main-color and 10 yards contrast-color Anna or other aran-weight yarn
  • 16-inch circular and double-pointed needles in size US8/5mm, or size needed to obtain a fabric and finished measurement you like (dividing the cast-on count, 84, by your stitch gauge will give you the finished circumference)
  • stitch marker
  • tapestry needle

Measurements (after wet blocking):

  • Gauge is 4.75 stitches and 5 rows per inch in rib stitch
  • Circumference (unstretched) is approx 17.5 inches at the brim; height is 8 inches

DIRECTIONS

Using main color (MC) and US8 circular needle, CO 84 stitches. Make sure stitches are not twisted around needles, place a marker, and join for working in the round.

Begin knitting
Rounds 1–6: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 7: (CC) knit all stitches
Rounds 8–9: (CC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 10: (MC) knit all stitches
Round 11: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Repeat last round until piece measures 6 inches (or desired pre-decrease height — see note above).

Shape crown (switch to DPNs when hat no longer stretches easily around circular)
Decrease round: *k2, p2tog, k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k2, p2tog (73 sts)
Next 2 rounds: *k2, p1, k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts; k2, p1
Dec round: *k2, p1, k2, p2tog; repeat from * to last 3 sts; k2, p1 (63 sts)
Next 2 rounds: *k2, p1; repeat from * to end of round
Dec round: *k2tog, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; k2tog, p1 (52 sts)
Next round: *k1, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 2 sts; k1, p1
Dec round: *k1, p1, k2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 2 sts; k2tog (41 sts)
Dec round: *p2tog, k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch; p2tog w/1st stitch on needle 1 (20 sts)
Dec round: *k2tog, p2tog; repeat from * to end of round (10 sts)
Break yarn and thread tail through remaining stitches; cinch closed and weave in ends on the wrong side.

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ABBREVIATIONS
CO = cast on
MC = main color
CC = contrast color
k = knit
p = purl
k2tog = knit two stitches together
p2tog = purl two stitches together
sts = stitches

Stadium Mitts

Stadium Mitts free knitting pattern at Fringe Association

The moment I laid eyes on Anna, from Imperial Yarn, I knew I had to have it for the shop. So charming and down to earth, my favorite weight to knit with, great colors, multi-seasonal cotton-and-wool blend, and marled! Once I actually had it in my hands and could knit with it, my mind immediately went to comfort knitting — which for me means fingerless mitts. I love to knit them; I love to wear them. And of all the pairs I’ve knit or own, the ones I wear most are my Super Simple Mitts. I can fold in my fingers, as with any mitts, but thanks to the simple slit thumb opening, I can also pull my thumb in against my palm on a long cold walk without an empty thumb gusset flapping around. And I can even slide them down onto my wrists and out of my way, rather than taking them off. So I decided to revisit and revise my Marl Mitts from last season, and write it out this time.

The end result is cozy and fun, and a little bit sporty. They make me think of evenings at a football game or late-season cookout, and although I knit them in black and natural, I can picture them in all kinds of team colors, making them great gifts as well. As you can see from the photos, I had enough yarn to knit a hat to go with (I’ll post the pattern for that tomorrow) and I still have enough yarn left over for a second pair of mitts or another small project! The full pattern is below, and I hope if you like it you’ll also Like it at Ravelry.

UPDATE: Here’s the beanie pattern: Stadium Hat.

Stadium Mitts detail

Stadium Mitts pattern

For these mitts and the coordinating Stadium Hat you can use two skeins of Anna in any color combination, reversing the MC and CC from the mitts to the hat as shown. You could also omit the stripes, knit them narrower or wider, or whatever your heart desires. The beauty of a project this simple is how easy it is to make it your own!

Construction notes:
The thumbhole portion of these mitts is worked in flat rows (with two stitches of garter at each end), treating the three needles holding live stitches as if they’re a single left-hand needle, and turning the work with each row, before rejoining in the round at the top of the thumb opening. During the stripe portion, carry the non-working yarn up through the rows by laying it over the working yarn on the wrong side of the fabric at the beginning of each round. Note that each first round of a color change is a plain knit round — if omitting the stripes, rib every round instead.

Materials:

  • 60 yards main-color and 20 yards contrast-color Anna or other aran-weight yarn
  • double-pointed needles in size US8/5mm, or size needed to obtain a fabric you like — the stretchy ribbing will fit a wide range of hands regardless of precise gauge
  • tapestry needle

Measurements (after wet blocking):

  • Gauge is 5 stitches and 6.25 rows per inch in rib stitch
  • Circumference (unstretched) is approx 6 inches; length is 7 inches

DIRECTIONS

Using main color (MC) and a US8 needle, CO 32 stitches, then divide onto 3 DPNs (12, 8 and 12 sts). Make sure stitches are not twisted around needles, and join for working in the round. Use your tail (or pin a marker) to keep track of needle 1.

Begin knitting
Rounds 1–6: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 7: (CC) knit all stitches
Round 8: (CC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 9: (MC) knit all stitches
Rounds 10–11: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 12: (CC) knit all stitches
Rounds 13–16: (CC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round (cut CC, leaving a tail to be woven in)
Round 17: (MC) knit all stitches
Rounds 18–28: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Piece should now measure approx 4.5 inches, or knit to your liking.

Create thumbhole (continuing with MC)
Row 29: turn work (WS); *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k4
Row 30: turn work (RS); *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts; k4
Rows 31–36: continue alternating previous two rows
Piece should now measure approx 6 inches, or knit to your liking, ending on a RS row.

Rejoin and finish knitting
Round 37: (MC) rejoin in the round; *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Rounds 38–41: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Round 42: (CC) knit all stitches
Round 43: (CC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round (cut CC, leaving a tail to be woven in)
Round 44: (MC) knit all stitches
Rounds 45–46: (MC) *k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round
Bind off loosely in pattern.

Weave in ends. Repeat from beginning for second mitt.

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ABBREVIATIONS
CO = cast on
MC = main color
CC = contrast color
k = knit
p = purl
sts = stitches
WS = wrong side
RS = right side

Mamoru Mitts

JULY 2, 2019—
Out of an abundance of respect for Japanese culture and for the issues around cultural appropriation, I’ve elected to change the name of this pattern, which was originally published as Wabi Mitts. Takako Ueki of Habu, whose yarn inspired this pattern and is sold in the kits, upon hearing that I wanted to change it, suggested the name Mamoru Mitts. Mamoru means “to protect” in Japanese, which feels just right to me. (Further thoughts here.) Thank you, Takako.

DECEMBER 2, 2014—
I’m so pleased to be re-releasing this pattern today, which has been updated with all-new photos and some revisions to the text. The details of the knitting are unchanged from the previous version — the edits are only for current Fringe Association styles and wording. And the best part: The pattern is now available in print form with the knit kit at Fringe Supply Co. Happy knitting!
—kt

Wabi Mitts free knitting pattern

At Stitches Midwest, when we could not keep away from the Habu booth, one of my favorite purchases was some N-68, a nubby, rustic, linen/wool yarn in dark charcoal. I knew right away that I wanted to knit a pair of very simple mitts out of it — something austere and Japanese-ish that would show off the softness and rusticity — and a picture developed in my mind. But as any form of design tends to do, the idea morphed on its way from my brain to my fingers. The result is definitely simple, but deceptively so: Out of the stockinette hand emerges an abbreviated reverse-stockinette thumb, which is crisply outlined all the way around. (Wow, practically slipped into International Art English there.) There’s a small rolled edge at the bottom of the cuff , with clean edges at the top of the hand and thumb.

They’re minimalist, for sure, but of the wabi-sabi school — poetically spare, with details that require you to slow down to notice them. Those details also slow down the knitting a tiny bit, but these are a still a very quick and satisfying project. At a ball and a half per pair, you only need one extra ball of the N-68 to net a second pair. Which is good, because I’m still trying to figure out how to make the first idea work. A companion pattern may follow …

Meanwhile, the full Mamoru pattern is below, and you can also add it to your queue or favorites at Ravelry.

Wabi Mitts free knitting pattern

Mamoru Mitts

These mitts were inspired by Habu N-68 linen-wool roving — a slubby, rustic, fingering-weight yarn that’s alternately held single and double over the course of the pattern to achieve a dense mitt with refined edges. (Substituting a single strand of heavier yarn will create heftier top edges, altering the look of the mitts.) Without a lot of stretch, and at 7″ around, these fit a medium-large woman’s hand, but the gauge is slightly loose. To make them smaller, go down a needle size, or eliminate 1 stitch from the thumb and 2 or 3 from the hand.

Materials:

  • 2 balls Habu N-68 linen-wool roving (109 yards each; pictured in Color 1/charcoal), or approximately 150 yards fingering-weight yarn
  • double-pointed needles in size US4/3.5mm and US7/4.5mm, or size needed to obtain gauge (or use your preferred method to work small-circumference in the round)
  • stitch markers
  • waste yarn (smooth cotton or dental floss)
  • tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Measurements:

  • Gauge: 4.75 sts and 6.5 rounds = 1″ in stockinette
  • Size: 7″ circumference (measured above thumb); 6″ long

DIRECTIONS

With smaller needles and yarn held double, CO 35 sts and divide between needles. Join in the round, making sure sts are not twisted around needle, and pin a marker for beginning of round (or use yarn tail to denote this).

Knit 3 rounds.

Change to larger needles—
Setup round: k28, pm, p3, pm, k4.
Slip round: k to 1 st before m, slip 1 knitwise wyib, sm, p3, sm, slip 1 purlwise wyib, k to end.
Straight round: k to m, sm, p to m, sm, k to end
Repeat last two rounds until piece measures 2 inches from rolled edge (do not unroll to measure), ending with a Slip round.

Create thumb gusset
Increase round: k to m, sm, pfb, p to 1 st before m, pfb, sm, k to end. (2 sts increased)
Slip round: k to 1 st before m, slip 1 knitwise wyib, sm, p to m, sm, slip 1 purlwise wyib, k to end.
Repeat last two rounds 4 more times (total of 10 rounds), ending with a Slip round. (13 sts between markers)
Next round: k28, sm, p13, sm, k4

Separate thumb and finish hand
Next round: k to m; drop marker. Place next 13 sts on waste yarn; drop second marker. Using backwards loop method, CO 2 stitches on right-hand needle; k to end. (34 sts)
Next 10 rounds: Knit.
Drop and cut one strand of yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.
Change to smaller needles—
Next 3 rounds: Knit. (Avoid working tightly.)
BO loosely.

Finish thumb
Place 13 held sts on needles. Join yarn held double; pick up and p 2 sts, coinciding with the extra cast-on sts. (I.e., with yarn in front, insert needle purlwise under both legs of one stitch, wrap yarn over needle tip and pull through for a purl stitch.) Join to work in the round.
Next round: Purl.

With smaller needle, BO as follows: k1, *p1, pass previous st over, k1, pass previous st over; rep from * to end.

Block as desired. Weave in ends, using yarn tails to close up any gaps around the thumb, if needed.

Repeat from beginning for second mitt.

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<< Fave/queue the Mamoru mitts at Ravelry >>

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ABBREVIATIONS

BO = bind off
CO = cast on
k = knit
m = marker
p = purl
pfb = purl through front and then back of the stitch before slipping off left needle (1 st increased)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
st(s) = stitch(es)
wyib = with yarn in back

Knit the Look: Lindsey Wixson’s easy oatmeal cowl

how to knit lindsey wixson's infinity scarf

I’m pretty sure this photo of model Lindsey Wixson in her fur hat and oatmeal cowl is the one that planted the seed for Knit the Look. I remember seeing it on Vanessa’s blog and thinking geez! This is literally Knitting 101 — cast on, knit, bind off. Then seam the ends together to form a loop. If you know the knit stitch — even if you only know the knit stitch — you can make this in no time.

So simulating this one doesn’t require tracking down a similar pattern, and it could be made from any chunky yarn you like. But the key to getting it to look like Lindsey’s is that marl effect, which you could easily achieve by holding three strands of yarn together, such as Cascade Eco Alpaca in Natural, Straw and Silver. To start, calculate what you want the circumference of your cowl to be: Drape a piece of yarn around your neck, estimating how you want the scarf to lay, then measure that length. (For this look, probably something in the range of 36–40 inches.) Cast on 30 stitches on US11/8mm or larger needles. Work back and forth in garter stitch (i.e., knit all stitches), until you have a rectangle whose length equals your desired circumference. Bind off loosely, then use your yarn and tapestry needle to seam the two ends together. Et voilà.

See Vanessa’s recommendations for the hat to go with!

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Street style photo © Vanessa Jackman; used with permission