I’m trying something a little different this season: looking at the fashion week collections city by city (as I fall inevitably behind). Starting where it starts: New York. The NY Spring 2017 collections are an especially odd hodgepodge this time around — running the gamut from sporty to ’70s psychedelic to goth, with no particular through-line other than an inordinate number of white dresses. I’m into the flirty little cropped fisherman sweater at Tory Burch, intrigued by the space-dyed onesie (or is it a sweater and pants?) under crinoline-like skirts at À Détacher, and puzzled by the three’s-a-trend situation of pullovers with button-up sleeves worn unbuttoned, as seen at A.L.C., Michael Kors and Lacoste. Ok, that last one looks like snap-on sleeves worn unsnapped at the raglans — but still!
As far as Bests go:
ABOVE: I’m crazy about lots of other things about the A.L.C. collection — a brilliant meld of sporty and flirty — including the black ribbed sweater dress over wide pants and shrunken striped turtleneck. And then there’s that last look, which my brain sees as a simple stockinette pullover in ash Kestrel, paired with some Liberty-print Purl Soho City Gym Shorts.
BELOW: Great little sleeveless, boxy, cabled number at M.Patmos.
I just ran across this older photo of Vanessa Jackman’s I had bookmarked awhile back, and had a whole new reaction to it. It’s Russian model Nastya Zhidkikh wearing a sweater that Jess did the perfect swatch for in her first Swatch of the Month post! It’s fisherman’s rib knitted on proportionally large needles for an open, lacy fabric, but in this case it looks like there’s a little bit of gauge-blocking as well: The upper part of the
front yoke is done at a finer gauge. If you skip over that little detail and do it all at one gauge, this would be super simple to replicate as a top-down raglan, using my Improv pattern. Seriously, it’s like Jess’ swatch, Jen’s knitalong sweater and my black lopi raglan all merged into this sweater. If you like the marl of Nastya’s sweater, you could hold two strands of fingering-weight yarn together and use even larger needles than Jess did. I like the idea of using a Shibui’s sport-weight Twig for this — a blend of linen, recycled silk and wool with an unusual texture that I think might hold up nicely to this use! And if you’re not into the visible bra trend, it would look fantastic over a little camisole.
See this post of Vanessa’s for additional photos of this sweater — same model, different day.
PREVIOUSLY in Knit the Look: Windowpane scarf
Street style photo © Vanessa Jackman; used with permission
Well, in a pretty boring season, the Dries van Noten show was just as reliably interesting as ever, and I’m utterly smitten with the simple slinky boyfriend cardigan that showed up in look after look — over ball skirts and under blazers. (A boyfriend cardigan under a blazer used to be one of my favorite tricks; I can’t believe I haven’t trotted that one out in awhile.) (And speaking of blazers, I’ll take this one, please.) But the absolute, undeniable showstopper of the season was this epic sleeveless sweater tunic. Fashion people are always trying to amp up the classic cable sweater and I almost always think it just looks overworked and silly, but this? This thing is magnificent.
I’d like to see it with that killer awning-stripe skort, and the plaid trousers. Heaven.
PREVIOUSLY in Fall 2016: M.Patmos’ blanket-cardigan
Um. Now normally I’m sort of allergic to a hyphenate. But this cabled ivory blanket-wrap-cardigan — a big rectangle with pockets and a button band — is so good I don’t even know what to say about it. Other than well played M.Patmos, well played.
PREVIOUSLY in Fall 2016: Hat hair
Just as I was about to give up on Pre-Fall 2016 as being devoid of anything truly jaw-dropping, I found myself paging through the Joseph collection, involuntarily muttering “omigod” under my breath with every click. Truly, for me, it’s beyond words. I love the shapes and the tones and the Sinead O’Connor-ish model. I love the impossibly beautiful coat in look 1 , the sporty looks with the silk blouses, the scale of the pockets on everything, the easy layering, and those utterly perfect boots. This makes me want to wear red on red, and I hate red. And of course I love the knits, including the ones pictured above, but really you should go click through the entire collection. At least once.
These are two of the best outfits I’ve ever seen my life:
You know my current obsession is slouchy dress-down sweaters over simple dresses, and I like ’em cropped, but I’m loving this long, all-platinum version photographed on Rachael Wang. To approximate her fisherman-cable sweater, all you need is Paton’s free pattern, the Honeycomb Aran pullover, knitted it in something luxe and silvery, such as Woolfolk’s Far in Color 03 or The Fibre Company’s Knightsbridge in Barley. Make it a size too big, and add a repeat or two above the hem.
If you’ve got the chops for sewing silk, you could easily make the dress to go under it. See April Rhodes’ Slip Dress pattern, which comes included with the Date Night Dress. Just cut it straighter and longer.
See Vanessa’s post for another look at Rachael’s outfit, head to toe.
PREVIOUSLY in Knit the Look: Alex Yuryeva’s plaid pullover
Street style photo © Vanessa Jackman; used with permission
Resort 2016 is officially the season of fringe and tassels and statement textiles — truly a fiber-lover’s dream season — and Sea is one of the best examples. Over the past few seasons, Sea has become one of my favorites (six months later, I’m still swooning over their Spring 2015 collection) but this Resort 2016 collection is everything. There are no knits to speak of, but there’s that amazing cable-y, braid-y textile used for the fringed top up top (as well as a kimono jacket), and another version of the same top in another stunning textile. There’s all the gorgeousness of that blown-up bandhani/bandana-ish print rendered in bleach on denim on an assortment of pieces, but most of all this dress. And there’s the dreamy long shirtdress with tiers of tassels, shown in ivory and olive. Plus all the denim and lace they’re known for. It’s the sort of collection that makes me want just about every piece in it, but also sets my brain buzzing with inspiration.
PREVIOUSLY in Resort 2016: Tory Burch’s textiles