2017 FO 18 : Wool muscle tee

Finished : Wool muscle tee

This is the winterized version of my favorite little sleeveless tee: Fancy Tiger’s Adventure Tank View B rendered in the scraps of wool knit I used for my modified Hemlock pullover, themselves already a remnant I bought from Elizabeth Suzann a couple years ago. So it cost me about a dollar, and while it comprises an hour or less of total sewing work, it hilariously took me seven months from start to finish! I cut it out in May; sewed the front and back together sometime over the summer; hemmed it, attached the neckband and jacked up my serger attaching the first armhole band a week ago. So yesterday, on a quiet sunny morning, I took on the unnecessarily daunting task of learning how to rethread the serger and get it working again so I could finally get that last band attached and top-stitched.

I absolutely love how this little tee looks in this cushy grey wool, and it would be quite valuable as an underlayer for my cardigans this winter. What remains to be seen is whether my neck will tolerate it; it is a little bit scratchy. I’m thinking I’ll give it a good soak in a lanolin-soap bath, like I would for any handknit, and cross my fingers — because it’s so very good.

Pattern: Adventure Tank (View B, muscle tee) from Fancy Tiger Crafts
Fabric: unknown grey wool knit remnant

Finished : Wool muscle tee

PREVIOUSLY in FOs: Vanilla cardigan

42 thoughts on “2017 FO 18 : Wool muscle tee

  1. Some people, Kate Davies included, recommend soaking scratchy wools in hair conditioner. I’ve never tried it, but it makes sense.

    • I have done that for years with wool knits and there is no reason not to try it with wool fabric. It smooths the cuticle of the wool, and if that is the cause of the scratchiness, it sometimes helps. I pretty much wash everything n my washing machine, including woven wool clothing, using the wool cycle, and it is always better for it. (High water level, only a few items so as to reduce friction, cold water, regular organic detergent but with the amount reduced by half; I have never ruined anything yet).

      It would be a shame not to be able to wear such a useful piece of clothing!

    • This is the thing I’ve come to realize: We all think other people’s stuff looks perfect, because we can see every little flaw in our own. (Such as the wonky top-stitching at the front neck on this, and did I stretch one arm band more than the other, or is it just looking that way in the light/photo?) It’s just close enough!

      • That is so funny Karen! My first thought in looking at it was “wow look at her perfect topstitching”!

  2. Love it!!! What an excellent idea for southern winters. You’re such an inspiration! Thank you!!!

    • I’ve been pondering some sort of facing, but it would need to be along the backside of the band — it’s only right around my neck, upper chest and collarbone that I have any issues. So the neckband itself is the most treacherous part of this one.

    • I also thought about making the bands out of a grey cotton jersey knit, but nothing in my stash was a close enough match for the main fabric. But that’s another idea for another time …

  3. You could knot a silk scarf around your neck tucking it inside the neckline and pretend you are a French woman.

  4. It looks great! Is that completely sewn on your serger? Did you use twin needles on the bands after?

    • With this and the striped one before it (and the pullover linked in the post), I do sew them entirely on the serger. The hem is the only thing sewn on the regular machine, and the topstitching. I have only used a twin needle once and found it unnecessarily fiddly. With the seam allowances already serged, I find a row of top-stitching (to nail them in place) is sufficient.

    • Oh, and the little seam that joins the bands into a ring before they get attached — I do that on the regular machine. Then all construction seams are on the serger.

  5. It’s always very inspiring to see how you make the most of the few patterns you own. In the spirit of Slow Fashion October, I’ve come to realize that I actually do not need a lot of patterns to make a whole wardrobe, and it has been a sort of “revelation” to me.
    Also, about scratching, you could cover your serger seam at the neckline with a ribbon.

  6. You might try a little hair conditioner in the soak, if the lanolin doesn’t do it. Sometimes that helps soften a piece up a bit.

  7. Here’s a thought, if you do find it itchy, what if you appliqued a strip of flannel or cotton fabric around the neck opening? I’ve seen that done an it can be quite nice. Congrats on the finish!

  8. Question about washing. I need to shape a hat that I made for my daughter but I am hesitant to use any thing on it but water. The yarn is 100% Llama and feels so heavenly I am afraid I will ruin it and it will lose some of its silky feel. Does just soaking it in water make sense? It is a lacy pattern so I watch to shape it to get the lace to be defined more. Thanks for your help.

    • I don’t have any experience with llama yarn, so can’t offer any insight. If you haven’t already knitted a blocked a swatch, that would be my suggestion!

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