Idea Log: Big pleated top

Idea Log: Big pleated top

With that back-to-school feeling in the air, I’m full of ideas about what I want to make for fall! As I said the other day, I really am trying not to get ahead of myself, but there’s a shirt in my head that I want to record so maybe it’ll leave me alone for a quick minute — but which I think will be the workhorse of the season for me. It’s weirdly and tangentially inspired by a lot of things: Studio Nicholson‘s way with volume, the fall Zara men’s lookbook, the ghosts of garments past. It’s sleeveless, mandarin-collared, a bit oversized on top and voluminous on bottom, perfect on its own or layered under all sorts of things. And while if it works out, there will be more than one, the first will be in that navy-ivory menswear striped remnant bundle I’ve been mulling for two years now.

My plan is to simply modify Grainline’s Alder shirtdress pattern — shortening it and straightening the hemline, leaving off the collar, using Acher’s big pockets, and trading in the gathers for wide pleats. All the more motivation to finish up my Archer.

p.s. I’m pretty sure those are also my army-green pants for SoB 3

(Fashionary sketch templates from Fringe Supply Co.)

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PREVIOUSLY in Idea Log: Side pocket pants

5 thoughts on “Idea Log: Big pleated top

  1. Sleeveless doesn’t come to mind as a fall workhorse for me, but I’ve caught on over time to your warm arms. I’m curious to see how you layer this – what kind of top layer volume/silhouette will work with the pleated volume. Maybe that gorgeous new wool rolled sleeve top you just made? Does Sloper scrunch in the volume too much? I’ll “stay tuned” . . . and best of luck on your first pants.

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    • I wouldn’t say I have warm arms (more likely the opposite) — I just really like sleeveless things in warmer weather and prefer sleeveless as the underlayer in cold weather as well. I can’t stand to have sleeves shoved into sweaters or jackets (always feels bunchy and uncomfortable to me) so very rarely ever do that. Which means layer 1 for me is preferably short-sleeved or sleeveless. This will be great under pullovers like the one you mentioned and definitely under cardigans and jackets.

      Here in Nashville, where “fall” might mean it stopped being humid but didn’t really stop being warm, I lean on clothes that might otherwise be considered summer clothes but have some sort of fall feeling about them. A sleeveless top or sweater plus boots gets me there. That sort of thing.

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  2. Even here in Canada I prefer sleeveless for winter layering, for the same reason as you. And I love pleats. I’ve been obsessed lately with the 18thC “short gown” (I wrote a blog post about this a couple of weeks ago) and am thinking of using its flared silhouette as a starting point for a lightweight fall cardigan. With temps outside in the high 20s C, it feels like the dog days of summer, but fall is definitely on the mind (isn’t it a knitter’s favourite season?)

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  3. First I have to tell you how I love your Blog and I bought your field bags and the porter bin and I’m so happy with it. Your sewing tips and infos and styles make my want to sew. yesterday I found this link https://shop.atacac.com with interesting sewing patterns.

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