Next of the Best of Resort 2016: a Sea of textiles

Next of the Best of Resort 2016: a Sea of textiles

Resort 2016 is officially the season of fringe and tassels and statement textiles — truly a fiber-lover’s dream season — and Sea is one of the best examples. Over the past few seasons, Sea has become one of my favorites (six months later, I’m still swooning over their Spring 2015 collection) but this Resort 2016 collection is everything. There are no knits to speak of, but there’s that amazing cable-y, braid-y textile used for the fringed top up top (as well as a kimono jacket), and another version of the same top in another stunning textile. There’s all the gorgeousness of that blown-up bandhani/bandana-ish print rendered in bleach on denim on an assortment of pieces, but most of all this dress. And there’s the dreamy long shirtdress with tiers of tassels, shown in ivory and olive. Plus all the denim and lace they’re known for. It’s the sort of collection that makes me want just about every piece in it, but also sets my brain buzzing with inspiration.

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PREVIOUSLY in Resort 2016: Tory Burch’s textiles

First of the Best of Resort 2016: Tory Burch’s textiles

Best of the Best Knits of Resort 2016: Tory Burch

Tory Burch’s Resort 2016 collection is a bit of an odd mish-mash of girly florals and Southwest-ish motifs, but the high points are so high. Namely, the kachina doll necklace and shoes, and the two textile-riffic outfits above. It’s hard to imagine that vest with the tassels and fringe not winding up as my Best of the Best for this season, but I’m also crazy for the black-and-ivory pullover with that incredible woven skirt.

One of my personal goals for Slow Fashion October is to sew something from fabric woven by my friend Allison, and this gets my mind racing.

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PREVIOUSLY: Best of Fall 2015

Knit the Look: Kia Low’s perfect summer sweater

Knit the Look: Kia Low's perfect summer sweater

Not many of us can pull off a gold lamé mini and Rodarte runway eyebrow “makeup,” but this slouchy little black sweater seen on model Kia Low is just the sort of staple we should all have in our closets. It strikes me as a classic Julie Hoover sort of thing, and sure enough she’s got just the pattern: Marly. All you need to do to make it a little more like Kia’s is knit an extra inch or two on the sleeve length.

Black yarn isn’t the easiest thing to come by, and Marly is written for Serena, an alpaca-cotton blend in sport weight, which makes this one extra tricky on the substitution front. (Unless, of course, you want to knit it one of Serena’s colors!) I asked Julie what she’d recommend and, interestingly, she thought of Shibui’s Twig and Pebble held together, which is the exact combo I was just swatching. Marly’s gauge is 23 sts and 32 rows over 4 inches. My swatch in those two yarns held double on US8s was 23 sts and 30 rows. So one could very likely get Marly’s gauge with a US7 or US8 needle and those two yarns, both of which come in the deliciously black Abyss. Or, as Julie points out, Shibui has a number of lace- or fingering-weight yarns that could be combined for this sweater in a variety of fabrics — Twig + Pebble, Linen + Silk Cloud, Cima + Linen. You’d just need the designated Marly yardage in each of the two yarns. And please send the sweater to me when you’re done with it!

See Vanessa’s original post for additional shots of Kia’s outfit.

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PREVIOUSLY in Knit the Look: Elin Kling’s spring shell

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Street style photo © Vanessa Jackman; used with permission

Best of the Best of Fall 2015: Rosetta Getty’s hothouse flowers

Best of the Best of Fall 2015: Rosetta Getty's hothouse flowers

Somehow I trailed off in talking about the most inspiring knits from the Fall 2015 shows without ever posting the Best of the Best! You have to be in full Fall fantasy mode to appreciate it right now, but Rosetta Getty was killin’ me with this collection. The cactus hothouse setting might have had some influence on me, I admit, but the sweaters are just incredible — from the shrunken to the enormous to the layers of enormous. There’s a definite rich hippie vibe to the whole thing — there aren’t many designers who could make me want to wear a  knee-grazing granny-square coat — and the recurring long cardigan with scarf-tie front is a thing I should hate. But over that incredible shirtdress? Gimme.

Best of the Best of Fall 2015: Rosetta Getty's hothouse flowers

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: Major turtlenecks

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: Major turtlenecks

Honestly, there’s so much good in the Fall 2015 collections we could probably talk about it all the way up until Fall. But another strong trend I can totally get behind is the major turtleneck. I’m starting above with the abbreviated version. From Elizabeth and James, these are two renditions of the same sweater: chunky, slightly cropped, split hem, and with a voluminous turtleneck. I might need to work a version of this into my knitting queue.

Then there are the two megas from Theory, below, which is a drool-worthy collection all the way around, including the most beautiful cape. But the turtlenecks! First we’ve got the austere, black wool cloth top with a massive rib-knit turtleneck. I’m still stuck on that idea of a sewing boiled-wool Linden and am now imagining knitting a huge neck like this to attach to it. Second is my idea of the Perfect Sweater, truly: simple grey-and-ivory marl with a neck you could get lost in.

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: Major turtlenecks

And then there’s J.Crew. Another voluminous but thin grey marl number with lighter grey neck and long cuffs. (Seriously, the long cuff idea was everywhere.) And then again with the wool cloth and rib knit combo, only this time in a kangaroo-pocketed pullover jacket-sweater that’s like nothing I’ve ever seen. Heaven.

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: Major turtlenecks

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: Knit skirts

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: Knit skirts

Among the surprising items to make repeat appearances on the Fall 2015 runways is the knit skirt. I’ve already sung the praises of the amazing cable skirt and white top combo at A Détacher. Then there’s this lovely duo, above, from Michael Kors — a swingy cable skirt shown in camel and charcoal, one paired with a matching cable sweater and the other with a chunky rib-knit sweater. (As with nearly all of the sweaters in the Kors show, both have ultra-long sleeves folded into forearm-length cuffs.)

Then there’s the pair below, which remind of those nail-biting (<— that’s sarcasam) episodes of Project Runway where two designers emerge from Mood with the same or similar fabric. Who’ll use it best? The upper image is from Mulberry, and the lower one is Opening Ceremony, both looks built around a grey knit skirt cut sideways. (Both textiles look like cut-and-sew sweater knits to me, but someone will correct me if I’m wrong.) I love them equally — would happily live in either outfit — but all of the oversized work jackets and exaggerated chamois shirts in the Opening Ceremony collection make me swoon. That they’ve paired them with sweater tunics and dresses only makes me love them that much more.

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: Knit skirts

PREVIOUSLY in Fall 2015: A Détacher forever

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: A Detacher forever

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: A Detacher forever and ever

If I hadn’t already professed my undying love for Mona Kowalska of A Détacher, I would certainly be doing it now. Her Fall 2015 collection got all my juices flowing; clicking through the images, my brain was thinking up things to sew and knit faster than my fingers could sketch them. Mostly simple little tops and dresses my closet and I are longing for (albeit not in those particular prints — other than the amazing volcanic explosion print!), but the way she’s mixed those breezy little pieces with knits here is classic quirky Mona. Along with simple little change-ups like a woven vest over a sweater dress and knit vest over a woven dress. There’s just no one like her. And nothing, especially, like that look below: quilted jacket over dress-length aran sweater over quilted pants. Ms. K, can I borrow your brain for just five minutes? And also this quilted dress?

Next of the Best of Fall 2015: A Detacher forever and ever

PREVIOUSLY in Fall 2015: Wool and the Gang walks again