Top-Down Knitalong FO No. 1: Jess Schreibstein

Top-Down Knitalong FO No. 1: Jess Schreibstein

Hey, guess what — there’s a member of the panel for the Top-Down Knitalong who finished her sweater! Brandi is either also there or on the brink, and Jen and I are still plugging away at it, but today I am pleased to show you the finished object of the lovely Jess Schreibstein. In case there’s anyone who doesn’t know her, Jess writes the Swatch of the Month column for Fringe Association, charms Instagram as @thekitchenwitch and just launched her new website. So let’s hear about this sweater—

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You’re the only panelist who will have completed the same sweater you started — yours is true to your original plan. Be honest: Feeling at all smug about that? ;)

You know, I didn’t even realize that I was the first person on the panel to finish her sweater until I wore it the first time. Then it just dawned on me – like, WOW, how did that even happen?! But all along, my primary goal was to stay dedicated to getting the sweater exactly how I wanted it, and I took it as a given that that process would take time and trial and error. But once I made it through yoke and neck shaping, the rest of the sweater came together easily, and I set myself a deadline of finishing by the Sheep & Wool Festival in Rhinebeck. Which I did, but barely, in true Rhinebeck fashion. The sweater finished drying the morning I left!

You wound up admirably spending a lot of time and revision on your neck, in an effort to get it just how you wanted it. To recap, you cast on your neck stitches and worked the funnel neck in the round, and initially weren’t going to do any neck shaping. But then you decided to add short rows, which took a few tries. Can you talk about why you didn’t want to shape the neck the traditional way — I know some people were curious why you chose the route you did — and how you feel about the short rows in the end? Do you feel you solved all the problems you were trying to solve?

You’re right – instead of casting on stitches and working the neck shaping back and forth before joining in the round, per the method you describe, I worked the neck in the round and then used short rows to get the neck shaping I was after. To get a turtleneck or mock neck with the traditional method, I would have to pick up the cast-on neck stitches, which wouldn’t really be an issue except that the simple lines of knit and purl are so important to getting my particular design to look right. I wanted those lines from the neck to move seamlessly into the yoke and body, without any funky jogs or noticeable seams around the neck.

I ran into setbacks on the short rows because I really just hadn’t had to use them much before, so didn’t know about some pitfalls in particular methods that make them unattractively visible. The knit/purl rib can also be less forgiving for short rows. On the recommendation of my friend Olga Buraya-Kefelian, I used the German Short Rows method, and spaced the turns 2 stitches apart from each other to lend a gradual grade to the shaping. It definitely worked, and I’m pleased with the result!

It seems like once you got over that hump, it was smooth sailing for you. Were there any other setbacks or revisions along the way?

The biggest revision was on the sleeves. I originally intended to knit them flat, as you’ve recommended for multiple reasons, but found after working half a sleeve that the seam would look sloppy with the decreases and the K1P1 rib. Instead, I worked them in the round, working in a knit seam down the center of the sleeve with a purl stitch on either side – which were later seamed up with a basting stitch. I was worried that a basting stitch on either side of this center “knit” seam, effectively creating two seams on the inside of the sleeve, might look bulky or feel stiff, but after blocking they melted into the sleeve and they look great.

You chose YOTH’s Father in Olive for your sweater (which they generously provided, I should note — thank you, YOTH!) How do you feel about your yarn selection for this sweater — are you into the Rambouillet, happy with how it’s performing this particular job? Anything you might have done differently there?

I loved working with YOTH’s Father and am so grateful to them for providing the yarn! The color is so rich and the stitch definition is stunning. Thankfully, Veronika at YOTH reached out to me before I started knitting to let me know that she recommends alternating skeins, since there is slight color variation from skein to skein. This definitely helped blend any slight light and dark differences in the yarn.

How did you wind up treating the lower edges — the cuffs and hem? And did you include other basting stitches anywhere or knit anything flat?

The edges of the neck, sleeves and hem were all worked in a size or two smaller needle than the body of the sweater to create some subtle shaping and a snug fit on the wrists. I bound off all edges with a tubular bind off, which looks great with the rib. I also added a few rows of decreases on each side of the hem of the body for the same reason – some subtle shaping and a snug fit. No parts of the sweater were knit flat, but I added basting stitches on either side of the wide raglans and to the inside of the sleeves, as I mentioned. They added so much great structure to the sweater and look great.

This was your first time knitting a sweater top-down — and apart from the neck shaping, you mostly followed the process described in my tutorial, right? What do you feel you got out of the process, if anything, and would you do it again?

That’s right, no other major changes from your outlined process besides the neck shaping. I have to say that I learn a lot each time I knit a new sweater, but this one was different. Thanks to this process, I now have a much deeper understanding of sweater construction than when I started. But even more importantly, I was part of a larger community of knitters trying, failing, and trying again to design their own sweaters, which helped me stay positive and focused on the ultimate goal – learning how to make a killer sweater for myself! I definitely plan to use this method again, specifically for some basic cream and black cardigans I’d love to have in my closet.

Thank you, Karen, for organizing and hosting this KAL and inspiring so many of us to create our own improvised sweaters! So grateful to you.

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(Where’s my blush face emoji?) Thanks so much for playing, Jess!

I’ll have the rest of the panelists’ sweaters to show you as they/we finish up! Meanwhile, there’s still action on the #fringeandfriendsKAL2016 hashtag and the Improv top-down tutorial is here (or on Ravelry) for you anytime.

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PREVIOUSLY in Top-Down Knitalong: WIPs of the Week No.7

14 thoughts on “Top-Down Knitalong FO No. 1: Jess Schreibstein

  1. The funnel neck is just right but those few decreases making that slightly bubbly hem are the perfect finishing touch! Very well done.

  2. The sweater and fit is beautiful! I hope Jess has time for a few questions. I haven’t tried the basting stitch technique but it makes a lot of sense and was always easy to visualize the purled basting line in a sea of stockinette. Now I see it’s not so clear in K1P1 rib – hard to see throwing in an extra purl for K1P1P1K1 and stitching up one of those purls as a seam – and you didn’t do that. I’m not clear on what you did do. You added a K with a P on either side. So the (PKP) was the seam and what was flanking that? PKP(PKP)PKP? PK(PKP)KP? That was the messy question. Also, did your basting along the raglan edges extend through the whole neck? And I’m curious about how many short rows you worked – I realize that would be different for different gauges – so what’s a ballpark estimate for your heavier knit? I know I’m asking a lot, sorry. But I never have burning questions about boring stuff, only beautifully compelling stuff.

  3. The sweater looks wonderful and Jess looks great in it. I’m going to have to find out about that kind of short row. Karen, I noted lately that I’m not receiving notice of new posts. I’m not sure if others have experienced this but thought you might want to know.

  4. I’m hoping too that you will write up the pattern ;-) Love the funnel neck and the hem detail.

  5. This is so great! I love funnel-necks and I would love to see more details of the front neck where the short-row shaping happens.

  6. It was so worth perfecting that neckline – it truly makes it! Such a beautiful jumper. Jess, I second the pattern request. I’d wear this one a lot!

  7. When I saw your project here, Jen, I thought ‘It’s so beautiful that it should be written down as pattern”. Then I thought “Hmm, maybe, since it’s such an individual process and idea, I could understand if she wanted to have only one existing”. When I read your Instagram comment it made me really happy that you want to write the pattern. Your jumper is so beautiful, especially in that green yarn! =)

  8. This sweater is beautiful! I love the ribbing and funnel neck – and the color is gorgeous! The trial and error on the neck was worth it. It turned out perfect.

  9. This is a gorgeous sweater, and this colour is a perfect olive, a wonderful trendy neutral. For those who asked about German short rows, you can find a video tutorial on the Pompom website. I’ve seen this method recommended in many patterns as it is the short row technique that is the most seamless.

  10. Pingback: Top-Down Knitalong FO No. 2: Brandi Harper | Fringe Association

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